Louise and Jerry were neighborless, only a barren nondescript storefront occupied the space to their left. Yet this uninhabited residence was located in a rather uninhibited part of town, Washington Street and Fourth. To that end, most agree that downtown Hoboken is a rather boisterous scene. So one can imagine that this drab, unoccupied space both caught and held my attention.

I studied the vacant spot for any signs of life. Each time I passed by, I discretely waved my fist in victory that this sacred space had not transformed itself into another dry cleaners, Chinese food establishment or (dare I say it) another Hoboken bar. Louise and Jerry needed new neighbors; European ones. What I was hoping for was an Epicurean miracle and it appeared to me in the form of Les Bisous.

Like the welcoming European style of kissing on both cheeks, Les Bisous and its blue bistro-like awnings extended a warm greeting. After all, the kiss is Les Bisous namesake.... and frankly after having dinner there I was ready to pucker up and kiss it right back. Les Bisous introduces a European flair to the Hoboken restaurant scene. The decor is bistro-esque and it is impossible to avoid noticing several massive etched glass paintings of female figures. A brief chat with Aldo, the owner, uncovered that these etchings are copies of Austrian artist Egon Schile; whose work is remarkably reminiscent of fellow Austrian artist, Gustav Klimt. Similar to Klimt and even Toulouse- Lautrec’s Moulin Rouge "ladies", these murals are intensely erotic.

However, Les Bisous is much more than just a gallery of eye-candy. It offers exciting bistro fare that challenges the patron to try something new. Stuffy, unadventurous eaters beware because this menu has a personality. One can dine on a range of dishes: mouthwatering risottos, oysters, fresh tartars and carpaccios, hardy flavored meat dishes of venison and lamb. Don’t overlook the three different cuts of succulent steak each with their own signature sauce. Every item on the menu held its own appetizing mystique which made ordering difficult.

Good thing my mate and I ordered up a round of martinis while pondering our "food mood". Our "drinks of the moment" were luscious; making the cocktails with crushed fruit added a nice touch! One martini later found us in eager anticipation of our orders. For an appetizer I was served a plentiful portion of tuna tartar; it was very fresh. The sweet soy marinade enhanced the inherent flavor of the tuna without being syrupy. The rounded mold of tuna was topped off with a sprinkling of sesame seeds. Midway through my tartar, my Fiancée happen to offer me a bite of his beef carpaccio. The carpaccio matched the tuna tartar in freshness. Moreover, the carpaccio was not laded with oil olive; a common mistake when preparing this dish. This is the way you want to have carpaccio!

Our second course was just as delightful as the first. He had venison chops and I the wild bass wrapped in parchment paper with small Vongole clams. My bass was superb; this meaty white fish was tender and filling. The clams were not overcooked or rubbery. The star that stole the show was a thick, creamy tomato sauce which the meat soaked in. This dish was quite simply perfection. Luckily, my Fiancée ordered another brow raising entree, the venison. This hardy meat was done to a tender medium rare. Two ample sized chops filled the plate and a berry sauce was ladled overtop. The generous side serving of porcini risotto was buttery, creamy and flavorful. This pasta/rice combination was cooked to just the right consistency, as this dish can sometimes be starchy...not this time!

The night could not end without satisfying my sweet tooth. The desert menu yielded one obvious choice; Tiramisu. Tiramisu has long been an indelible Italian favorite since its origin in Sienna, Italy. The basic recipe consists of: mascarpone (a triple cow’s milk cheese): ladyfingers, espresso coffee, and liquor (brandy, marsala or rum). Though the recipe sounds simple, achieving the right balance of ingredients is challenging. Les Bisous succeeds in creating one of the most delicious Tiramisu recipes I’ve ever tasted. It was delicately balanced, creamy, and rich. This is Tiramisu in the true sense.

With a diverse wine list, pleasant and knowledgeable wait staff, an extensive offering of specials, and a Euro-centric menu...I can’t think of one reason why Les Bisous should not rank in the top three dining experiences in Hoboken. Be prepared though that all this Euro-chicness comes with a price tag. But as a "foodie" I’d rather spend my money here. Be sure to check out the backroom for private parties!

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