A new cheesesteak shop has opened in midtown Hoboken, under the name Jake's
Cheesesteaks. Bill Cooke, Chris Carlin, Stuart Gollomp and Nick LaRosa
opened the restaurant on March 2nd. The first question asked was, "Who is
Jake?" There was a mysterious reply with a wink: "No one. Everyone. Who knows?"
The original idea for the store was Stuart's; he wanted to open a cheesesteak
shop in New York City. He gathered a few partners, scouted a few locations but
ultimately decided to try their first store in Hoboken. Chris was from Philly,
and he was the resident expert in cheesesteaks. The first step for the partners
was to do a little 'field research'.
"I think we ate at about every cheesesteak place inside and outside of
Philadelphia – Pat's,
Geno's, Jim's...I
think we ate about a hundred cheesesteaks in the last few months before we
opened!", Bill Cooke remarked with a laugh. The partners did their research
noting what things they liked and those things they didn't like and then came
up with their version of a cheesesteak for Hoboken. Bill was quick to note that
"It's not 'Jake's Philadelphia Cheesesteaks', its just 'Jake's Cheesesteaks'
– we aren't trying to be Pat's or Geno's – we are trying to be Jake's". They
decided upon the following cheeseteak variations: Beef, Chicken and their own
special vegetarian steak - plus they have some delicious steak fries to go
along with your cheesesteak. They expect to expand the menu soon to include:
Pizza Steaks (a cheesesteak with marinara sauce), BBQ Chicken Steak, Sloppy
Joes, the Steak & Egg Sandwich, Onion Rings and Sweet Potato Fries. A
second store is due to open soon in New York City, possibly near Grand Central
Station.
Those transplanted Philadelphians that spend their time in the New York area
often pine for their old favorite delicacies: like
Tastykakes or Habbersett
Scrapple or a Pat's Steak. Nearly everyone in the Philadelphia metro area
makes a cheesesteak part of their diet, much like a resident of New Orleans
enjoys cajun creole cuisine. The identity of cheesesteaks to Philadelphia is so
great that if you watch a Philadelphia Eagles game you may see a "Cheesesteak
Head" sitting in the audience. This a fan who decides to kiss his social life
goodbye by wearing a silly foam hat made to look like a cheesesteak. To ensure
a proper review, we selected an elite cadre of Philadelphia cheesesteak
connoisseurs to descend upon the store at random times over the last several
weeks and report their 'Jake's Cheesesteak Experience'.
Here is what they found:
The Bread: One of the most important aspects of a cheesesteak, and a key
component of the sandwich. We all know that Hoboken has some wonderful bread
makers and that most Philadelphia fanatics love the
Amoroso's bread for a "proper" cheesesteak. The partners at Jake's decided
to sample many bread makers inside and outside of Hoboken until they found a
secret bakery. The partners wanted a fresh bread has the taste, texture and
firmness to be a good Jake's cheesesteak roll. Because of the hand made
process, each sandwich can vary a bit in size each time you visit the store,
this inconsistency puzzled some reviewers. Everyone agreed that they liked the
quality of the bread, but questioned if it was sturdy enough to be a
cheesesteak roll. Other taste testers remarked that they would like to see if
the partners at Jakes would be willing to stock Amoroso's bread, along with the
home made bread, for those that prefer the latter.
The Meat: At Jim's Steaks on South Street, half of a cow is simmering on
the grill ready to be consumed during the day. Jakes doesn't have that same
volume of business; the steak is refrigerated & cooked on the grill to
order. The meat they use its 100% sirloin, not rib-eye meat that is used at
some other cheesesteak places. This makes a sandwich that is less greasy and
fatty than a traditional cheesesteak. A few other reviewers noted that they
didn't think enough meat was served. The partners tell us they serve a 6-ounce
serving of meat per sandwich, and you can order a "double meat" which slaps on
a whopping 12 ounces of meat. This may be overkill – a 9-ounce steak sandwich
might be a good idea to offer the customers.
The Cheese: You can get your steak with American, Provolone or a
Philadelphia favorite – Cheese Whiz. Believe it or not, a steak with "Whiz" is
a favorite among the Philly faithful. Many other cheesesteak places around the
New York metro area offer cheesesteaks, but don't offer Cheese Whiz. Jake's
gets a special thumbs up for providing the Whiz. Plus, get a side of Whiz for
those hand cut french fries, they are delicious together.
The Extras: One major difference is the caramelized sweet spanish
onions. They are cooked on the grill at a certain temperature to bring out the
sugars; too hot will burn the onions and too slow will sweat the onions. The
result is a sweet onion taste with your cheesesteak, a bit different than found
in a typical Philadelphia cheesesteak – like with all the taste testers some
people liked it and some just wanted your basic onion. They also have hot
cherry peppers and sweet peppers that you can add to your cheesesteak.
Any good Philadelphian knows – loyalties are written in blood over what
cheesesteak shop is your favorite – and I have seen shouting contests over who
makes the greatest cheesesteak. Jake's has been no different, and there has
been a lot of
discussion about what they are serving. Some of the Philly reviewers were
adamant about certain standards: the steak was not greasy enough; the demands
that the rolls must be Amoroso's; or the order of preparing a cheesesteak: the
cheese whiz should first be applied to the roll and then the
steak meat must be added on top. This is what it's like to be from Philly,
everyone passionately debates the sports teams, the politics and the
cheesesteaks. Jake's partners were inspired by the famous Philadelphia
eateries, but wanted their own distinct and unique cheesesteak sandwich. They
accomplished this quite well, so why not stop at the store and attempt your
very own "Jake's Cheesesteak Experience"?
- Reviewed by Sean Iaquinto
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