Buskers

Function: noun

Etymology: busk, probably from Italian buscare to procure, gain, from Spanish buscar to look for

Date: 1857
chiefly British: people who entertain especially by playing music on the street

Date: 2003
chiefly Hoboken: A new tavern in our mile square city that creates a symphony of sophisticated cuisine, charming service and a comfortable atmosphere

Buskers is located on the corner of 1st and Bloomfield Street in Hoboken, and was the brainchild of Sean and Maura Hession. They wanted the style of an upscale Irish Bar and they hired O’Sullivan Interiors from Waterford, Ireland to bring their dreams to life. The exterior and interior of the bar are absolutely beautiful; this new restaurant is a rousing success and a compliment to our town. The menu at Buskers would best be described as "Elegant American Comfort Food", and it should be noted that the menu is seasonal; I sampled their menu with friends during the winter of 2003/2004. The menu is quite expansive, with choices from the basic (like Stuffed Chicken Breast, Risotto, Steak) to the remarkable, (Duck Breast, Lamb Shank, Roasted Cod), there is a dish here for just about everyone to enjoy.

The menu and the choices therein were all designed by head chef Joel Faber. When Joel was a young man of sixteen years, he fell in love with his craft while working in the bakery at a sleepaway in Starlight, Pennsylvania. He graduated high school, but rather than studying at a culinary school – he went to a regular college – and then after working in the garment industry for seventeen years he followed his dream. Joel was trained by The French Culinary Institute of New York City and was sous-chef at The Cub Room in New York City for three years. I think there is a little bit of Joel Faber in all of us, except he took that courageous next step to realize his goal and I believe everyone in Hoboken is a little bit better because of it.

We began our meal with a sampling of the "Starters", and we were all in agreement that they were all delicious. The Crisp Lobster Roll ($12), a flaky shell that surrounded lobster sabayon, was the top choice amongst all who dined here. Steamed Mussels ($10) were another savory appetizer, with the sauce of herbs & chardonnay perfect for dipping the accompanying grilled Aioli bread. We also enjoyed the Fresh Mozzarella Boccocini ($9), we felt as if the proportions of mozzarella and roasted peppers to the arugula were a bit lacking – but don’t be swayed, it was quite amazing.

The starters at Buskers were able to hit the right notes with my fellow diners and we were very much looking forward to our entrees. I noted that from the moment that we ordered our food, the service was very professional and quick, our "Main" dishes soon followed. The Risotto ($17) was the first dish we sampled, a rich and thick meal that will be a treat for your taste buds but may cost you a few extra sit-ups at the gym! Its combination of rice, cream, butter, parmesan cheese and white truffle oil was very satisfying but there was almost too much food - the portions were enormous! The diners commented that it might be a good idea to reduce the amount of risotto, and charge a lower price. Seventeen dollars for a basic risotto dish is a bit much to ask for, even in Hoboken.

We were pleasantly surprised by the Red Snapper in Parchment ($22), this is something that all seafood enthusiasts must try. The parchment paper surrounds the snapper, vegetables, thyme and chardonnay sauce, which keeps the succulent juices in the broth and the fresh, moist fish is wonderful. Another treat from the ocean was the Seared Tuna ($26), crisp on the outside and rare inside the reviewer remarked it was the best tasting tuna he had in a long time; I couldn’t agree more. For the carnivores of town, I suggest The Crisp Muscovy Duck Breast ($27) was a straight forward meal: juicy duck, "smoked" kale and sweet potato puree – the bitterness of the kale and the sweetness of the potato were meant to offset the senses and compliment the duck. The Braised Lamb Shank ($22) was simmered in a merlot sauce, which allowed the dry red wine to lightly infuse with the dish. The lamb was served with a wild mushroom risotto – Joel remarked that this and the duck were two of his "signature dishes". We also feasted on the Filet Mignon ($27), with a moderately spicy dijon sauce, that made this loin cut anything but average.

One thing that can never be called "average" at Buskers would be their wine list. It was designed by Robin Riker, who is the General Manager of Buskers and the third player in this group of performers. Prior to joining the team at Buskers, he owned his own restaurant for twenty one years and won Wine Spectator’s "Award of Excellence" for ten years! His personal passion for wines can easily be seen by a quick scan of the wine list. This isn’t your average Hoboken wine list, of overpriced and mass produced grape varieties – Robin adds his personal touch here. For the Merlots try the 1999 Newton Epic ($65), 2000 Pine Ridge "Crimson Creek" ($45), or the 2000 Selene ($62). For the Cabernets try 1999 Grant Burge "Holy Trinity" ($55) or 2000 Chateau Jonqueyres ($32). For the Chardonnays try the 2000 Paul Hobbs ($62), 2000 Chateau St. Jean "Robert Young Vineyard" ($42) or 2000 Hartford Court "3 Jacks" ($46). In the future Buskers will be hosting an affordable wine tasting night & anyone interested can certainly call Robin at the restaurant.

Buskers Bar & Grill is something I suggest that everyone should try as soon as they can. The service was mostly attentive, professional and knowledgeable about their subject matter, but wasn’t perfect – I’d give them an 8 out of 10. The appetizers were incredible and knocked everyone’s socks off; they scored 9 out of 10. The entrees were of high quality ingredients, with very good portions, but didn’t impress as much as our appetizers, they scored an 8 out of 10. Buskers’ atmosphere was pleasant, but it can get a bit cramped during the busy weekend nights, try to avoid the "middle" dining room and sit in the back room for the more romantic engagements. The cost of a night at the restaurant will be expensive, and a night here should be reserved for something special, so I would rate the cost a 7 out of 10, keeping in mind the quality, presentation and care put into these dishes. This establishment has been open for three months and Joel told me that it’s constantly a work in progress, like any new performing troupe, learning to play a masterpiece.

Overall rating: 8 out of 10
Review Date: 1/26/04

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